world, only to come crashing down and then do exactly the same thing again three seconds later. Not good.
But eventually we arrived, drove straight through Customs with no worries at all and found the campsite about 5 minutes drive from the ferry port. Along with pretty much all the other campers and bikers on the ferry! Busy night for the site, but almost everyone except us was gone the next morning. Naturally we had a bit of a lie in :-) Jason was also keen to try and get us on a helicopter to look around the islands, which as it's subsidised by the government is amazingly cheap - around £130 for a two hour loop all around. Unfortunately we couldnt even get the people who run the helicopter scheme to answer their phones, and there was no-one in their office by the helipad, so that was that idea bashed on the head. By this point in was mid afternoon and we decided to have a drive around the islands instead and park ourselves on the next island across. Getting out of of Torshavn was easier said than done, with no road atlas and nothing showing on the GPS! Still, it's a small place and doing a complete loop only took us half an hour, and on the way back to the campsite we spotted a road sign we’d missed the first time which put us on the coast road out of town we’d been looking for.
Next morning the sun was shining weakly and we continued on our exploration of the island, as much as we could without getting on a ferry and potentially being stranded and unable to make our connection to Iceland! Jason had found a couple of Viking relic sites listed in the guidebook so we went and had a look at those. It's amazing really to think that the stone walls have been standing for so many hundreds of years, and against such fierce weather as they have here in the winter. I don't imagine there’ll be too many Barratt homes still standing after 500 years! We also passed more than one turf covered house, still a popular way of insulating homes against the bad weather. And those that aren’t turf covered are usually clad in corrugated sheeting, painted all kinds of colours. Very pretty against the grey skies...
Checked in and in the process of dumping stuff in the cabin, we were surprised to see ourselves pulling out of harbour almost an hour early. I guess it made sense though, if everyone they’re expecting is on board and no-one is allowed to buy a last minute ticket, why not leave as soon as you’re ready? Very sensible really.
Still full of Chinese buffet we didn’t really want to have anything to eat on board (not a bad thing when you consider the food prices aren’t all that cheap - much the same as ferries everywhere). We decided the best thing to do would be to try and get asleep before we got out into the open seas and possibly more of the rocking and rolling that made the previous journey unpleasant. Jason threw himself into the idea and was snoring within about ten minutes, so I lay there for another hour and a half, waiting to be tired enough to fall asleep despite the snoring. Eventually convinced I was ready for sleep, I turned out my little reading light and nodded off quite happily. Only to be woken up by Jason about three hours later, getting up to have a Cupasoup because he was hungry! What is it about a Chinese meal that makes you so full up so quickly, but then leaves you ravenous a few hours later?? Soup drunk, it was swiftly followed by a second Cupasoup and then a packet of noodles and then a Snickers! Happily, he was not feeling quite so nauseous this time around :-) Having eaten everything we had in the room apart from my liquorice sweets which he doesn't like, Jason got back into his top bunk and watched telly for a while, and eventually was back asleep. So then I was back asleep too, but the pillow was about as plump as a couple of socks in a bag, so sleep was shallow and fitful, and to be honest getting up at 5.30am ready to leave the cabin an hour later was a pleasure.
23rd August - The Faroes
After around 36 hours on the ferry, we finally arrived in the Faroe Islands. Despite the crossing being relatively calm, I felt pretty awful for most of it and Jason was worse off than me, dashing to the loo to bring up anything in his stomach every ten minutes. It wasn’t rough as such, more of a deep swell that felt like you were going up over the biggest humpback bridge in the
The scenery was quite dramatic and very similar to the Scottish islands, which I guess shouldn't have been too much of a surprise. Very minimal traffic, and what there was travelled quite slowly (keeping an eye out for the kamikaze sheep we’d been warned about, I suppose). With time ticking on and us both still feeling a bit worse for wear after the boat trip, we decided to look for the camping car parking area in a small village called Skala. After driving past it in one direction and then through it in the other, we were still none the wiser, until we stopped next to a very faded Information sign - looked like we’d managed to stop about 200yards away from it without realising! Rather than take Moglet up the steep local road and possibly find ourselves in a tight spot for manoeuvring, we walked up just to make sure it was ok. Space-wise it was fine - just a car park round the back of the local sports centre with hook up points for a few spaces at the end. There was only one other camper in the car park and despite Jasons best efforts to find someone we could pay for the night, it was all locked up tight. Naturally once we sat down to eat dinner there was a banging on the door and a local asking if we wanted to stay the night - £15 for a parking space! Still, I guess in an isolated place like the Faroes they have to take what opportunities they can for generating income, and with no such thing as common land and therefore no wild camping allowed anywhere, we didn’t really have too much choice in the matter.
We eventually made our way back to the original campsite, ready for the ferry the next afternoon to Iceland. After our experiences on the crossing getting to the Faroes, neither one of us was much looking forward to the trip, so we decided to try and take our mind off things with lunch in an all-you-can-eat Chinese buffet recommended in our guidebook! Our first Chinese since about February, we were both really looking forward to it, and although some of the things on offer were a little less Chinese than we might have been used to (sweet and sour fish? hoisin meatballs??!) it was very tasty and not a bad price. Stuffed to bursting, we waddled back to Moglet, took her to a local servicing station to empty the tanks (very novel little trundle truck kept things nice and tidy!), and then joined the queue for the ferry.